Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Part 2 - Sabor Latino

   I hope you enjoyed Part 1 of the blog. I will go on with the script that we were not able to read the night of the event. 
   Julián decided to feature a dish for vegetarians, something that is most important to remember when we have dinner guests. He prepared a Tortilla Española with a very special twist.















You are going to ask,Tortilla Española from Spain with Spinach and Manchego Cheese? Yes, not only will  you demonstrate creativity, but you will add nutritious elements to potatoes and eggs satisfying a vegetarian's palate...

Queso Manchego.
 ... from the region of La Mancha, the land of Don Quixote. In this famous book written by Miguel de Cervantes y Saavedra, Quixote talks to the shepherds and explains how to prepare cheese. It continues until today to be the recipe used by La Mancha cheese makers. I found the passage from the novel on many websites, but only in Spanish and with no reference where to find it in the actual book. I hope you will forgive me posting the text in the original version... 

“Sírvanse vuesas mercedes de ordeñar las ovejas manchegas a la antigua usanza y agréguesele flor de cardo manteniendo el condimento a una temperatura de 30 grados para obtener la cuajada. Sáquese del lebrillo con un cuenco o bacía y deposítese en los moldes de pleita, apretando para que escurra. Vuélvase a echar en su cuna y hágase preso de nuevo con toda fuerza posible hasta dejarlos cargados con pesos durante seis horas, al cabo de los cuales se se depositarán en el dornajo con salmuera , ahogándolos durante dos días. Cumplido este tiempo llévense al secadero, donde se mantendrán en asueto durante 60 días y el aseo que es menester  para las cosas del estómago. Al cabo de los cuales se retirarán de los vasares para el buen yantar en la mesa de canónigos y príncipes”.

According to this site the passage appears in the first part of the book published in 1605...




There are several dishes not described, but indeed savored by the audience, before and after the forum.

Among the Hors d'oeuvres Julián and his expert kitchen staff, prepared  Saltinas con Atún, Colombian style and Anticuchos de Cordero, very popular in Perú.




Let's enjoy the plentiful fish variety that offers the Pacific Ocean! 

I was also intrigued by two ingredients mentioned in the recipe:
  1. Siracha or Sriracha - a Thai sauce 
  2. Lavosh - an Armenian unleavened flat bread


This is another example on how we are able to enhance our meals adding ingredients from around the world!




Carne Mechada on the left - Anticuchos on the right


What does "Anticucho" mean?
click here for text source 

"But, what is the origin of the Anticuchos?
According to documents in the National Library of Lima’s archives, anticuchos came to life in the 16th-century, after Peru became a Spanish colony. The Spanish brought their own style of cooking into the country, along with foreign ingredients such as beef (which replaced llama meat), garlic, cumin and vinegar. But the reality is that: were the African slaves, not Peruvians or Spaniards, the ones who mixed Spanish staples with native hot peppers to create the iconic dish now known as anticucho.
The history starts when wealthy Spaniards came to live in Peru and for that, they built haciendas to live in. In the coastal region those haciendas were cotton and sugar plantations sustained by the labor of black slaves brought by the Spaniards from Africa. The hacendados (owners of the haciendas) periodically slaughtered a cow for food, and then, they used to give the innards—which they considered garbage—to their slaves.
Because the slaves needed to eat, they were forced to make the innards edible. But how? They saw how Andean people seasoned their food with native hot peppers, and on the other side, they had access to Spanish ingredients such as garlic, vinegar, cumin and salt, through those who were working in the hacienda kitchens. So, why not mix it all together and make a sauce to season the innards? They did, and what amazing surprise, it was delicious!
Soon, the innards were diced into bite-sized pieces and soaked in the marinade for hours. The absence of proper stoves forced them to cook over a fire, and that was another problem they easily solved, how would they hold the tiny pieces of meat to grill them? The answer was easy,  sugar cane stalks were ideal skewers.
At this moment the anticucho was born


For many Peruvian historians the word anticucho comes from the Quechua antikuchu (anti=Andes, kuchu=corte or cut). Others believe that it is a melding of the Quechua words anti meaning Andes and uchu meaning aji (a hot pepper). Linguists argue that it comes from the Quechua word antic-uchu, a name given by  ancient Peruvians to a very hot soup, prepared with a special pepper from the jungle.
What we know for sure is that Anticuchos are a popular and delicious dish originated in Peru, and consisting of small pieces of grilled skewered meat.
If you are in Peru you can find Anticuchos on street-carts and street food stalls (anticucheras). The meat may be marinated in red wine vinegar and spices (such as cumin, aji, garlic or annatto seeds), and while anticuchos can be made of any type of meat, the most popular are made of beef heart (anticuchos de corazón).



  Our guests raved about the anticuchos prepared by the Chef. They felt very encouraged to try the Peruvian appetizer at home.

   Aside of Parihuela and Pollo Sudado, our guests tasted Enchiladas Rojas con Carne Mechada, a fabulous Mexican dish.

While I am writing this blog, I realize that the card the guests received that evening does not feature the true recipe Julián prepared. Here is the perfect and complete description:

Enchiladas Rojas con Carne Mechada

4 Guajillo Peppers, seeds removed 
4 Ancho Peppers , seeds removed. 
The remaining liquid and veggies from the short ribs 
12 corn tortillas The shredded beef, 
1 1/2 cup of fresh cheese crumble 
1/2 cup of white onion finely chopped 
1/3 cup of vegetable oil

Let's start first with the sauce. 
Ingredients
Slightly roast the peppers in a hot griddle, pressing them flat with the help of a spatula. Make sure NOT to burn them. This step takes a few seconds on each side of the peppers. Once roasted, place them in a saucepan with water and turn the heat to medium and simmer for about 15 minutes or when they look soft. Remove saucepan from stove and let them cool for another 10-15 minutes. The pepper skins should look soft.
After the resting period, drain the peppers and place in the blender along with the liquid and veggies from the short ribs, and blend until you have a smooth sauce. If necessary, strain the sauce into a large bowl using a fine strainer. Season with salt and pepper if necessary, and set aside.
Pre-heat your oven to 350 degrees to keep the enchiladas warm while you finish assembling them. Add the 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large skillet at medium heat. Add oil little by little as needed. To much oil will get a soggy tortilla. Dip the tortilla into the sauce to lightly coat each side. Place it in the Frying Comal-pan or skillet and briefly fry a few seconds on both sides. Add more vegetable oil to the skillet as needed. Place fried tortillas in a dish while you make the rest of the tortillas to keep warm in the oven.

To assemble the enchiladas, first place the filling in the center of the tortilla and then roll it. Sprinkle the enchiladas with the cheese and onion.

Researching the name and origin of the Enchilada I found this interesting article:

"An enchilada is a traditional Mexican dish, typically made with a corn (maiz) tortilla dipped briefly in hot lard or oil to soften then dipped in the chosen enchilada sauce. The tortillas are filled and rolled up, placed in a casserole dish, then layered with sauce and possibly other additions such as cheese and chopped onions or olives.


Enchiladas can be filled with almost anything, depending on the cook's taste and means. While enchiladas made with meat or cheese fillings are very popular (chicken enchiladas being common), vegetables, seafood, eggs, or bananas may also be used. One popular variant consists of potatoes and white cheese.


Enchilada comes from the verb enchilar (= "to add chile pepper to"). Enchilada literally means "in chile". The traditional enchilada sauce is just that—dried red chile peppers soaked and ground into a sauce with other seasonings. However, red enchilada sauce may also be tomato-based with red chiles, while green enchilada sauce is usually made of tomatillos and green chiles. Mole may also be used as enchilada sauce.


Since the filling and sauce are prepared before assembling the enchiladas, baking in an oven serves to heat through rather than cook the dish. Common garnishes are cream, diced or sliced onions and grilled cheese (enchiladas suizas, suiza, meaning Swiss, is an adjective that indicates the dish is topped with cream or cheese, the appellation is derived from the Swiss Mennonites who brought their religion as well as their love of cream and cheese to Mexico) sour cream, lettuce, olives, chopped onions, chili peppers, and fresh cilantro. Fried eggs or cecina (salted, cooked strips of meat; like bacon) may be added as a final touch or as a side dish.


An enchilada topped with fried eggs may be called enchilada montada (the eggs are mounted, montada, on top). Other adjectives may be used to describe the recipe origin, eg: enchilada tapatia would be a recipe from Jalisco.


An enchilada made with bean sauce rather than chile sauce is called an enfrijolada (from frijol, bean)


Since this is a very simple dish to prepare, the phrase "estas no son enchiladas" (these are not enchiladas) is used, tongue in cheek, in Mexico City to refer to something that is not simple. This phrase is commonly used in response to impatient complaints. The enchilada also has its place in English slang, in the phrase "the whole enchilada," which means "everything."


American, or Southwestern Style Enchiladas are a bit different and varied. Most begin with corn tortillas, used raw, instead of fried in oil, and are stacked flat. From there, the differences begin. In blander variations, they are placed in a caserole dish, and alternately layered with cooked, parcelled chicken breast, chili strips, and grated Cheddar and Monterey Jack cheese. All of this is covered with cream of chicken soup and topped with grated cheese, and the whole thing is baked uncovered until done. When served, a generous stack is placed in the center of the plate, and a ring of shredded lettuce and chopped tomatoes is added around the serving.


In a more traditional recipe commonly found in Arizona and New Mexico, the individual tortillas are dipped in red chile sauce and stacked like pancakes, with each layer sprinkled with cheese and minced onion. The stack is then topped off with a fried egg, which is also smothered in red chile. Accompanying side dishes vary according to tastes and tradition.

Source:

By now you may have noticed the variety of meats chosen for each dish. It was important for Julián in addition to fish and seafood, to feature chicken, red meat, pork, and sheep...


To add the "broche de oro" as we say in Spanish, servers passed around a dessert... it was delicious.
Merengón de Duraznos

According to Julián, it is a popular dish in Colombia, but as you well know merengue or meringue has become popular all over the world!
Merengón de Fresas
“Merengón con Fresas y Duraznos” 
Meringue Dessert with Strawberries and Peaches

Serves 6 people. 3 hour cooking time

Meringue
5 large Egg Whites, at room temperature 
1 1/2 cup of granulated sugar 
1/2 tbsp. lime juice 
1/4 tbsp. Vanilla Extract

Strawberry Filling
3 cup fresh Strawberries, sliced 
1/4 cup Sugar 
1/4 Fresh Mint Chiffonade 
1 cup  Heavy Cream
1 tsp. Vanilla Extract 
2 tbsp. Powdered Sugar

Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 250 degrees F. Line two small, or one large, baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. Place the egg whites in a bowl, with an electric mixer, whisk until soft peaks form. Increase speed to high and gradually add granulated sugar, about 3 tablespoons at a time, add the lime juice and keep whisking until stiff peaks form. The whites should be firm but moist. Occasionally scrape down the side of the bowl.

Spoon half of the meringue onto the prepared baking sheet, flatten with a spatula making sure the base of the meringue is not too thin. Place the rest of the meringue on another baking sheet. Bake them for about 2 hours until the meringue is crispy. Turn the oven off and leave the meringue in the oven, with the door ajar opened until cooled completely about 2-4 hours. Do not remove it from the oven when it is still warm. 

To make the filling: 
Place the strawberries in a bowl with the granulated sugar and mint to macerate until the meringue is ready. Whisk the whipped cream with the vanilla and powdered sugar until stiff and fluffy. 

Assembly: Using a spatula, spread the whipped cream over the meringue, add the strawberries, the place the second meringue on top. Spread another cream layer and add the rest of the strawberries on top. 

Origin of merengue or meringue.
Researching the origin I was surprised to learn that it is not Latin or Hispanic, but Swiss!
The most accepted theory  places the creation around  the turn of the 16th century, in Meiringen. It was introduced to the French court of Louis XV in 1747...

Magdalena wrapped up the forum with these words:

...As we enjoyed Chef Segreto’s culinary skills and talents, and as we have tasted each of the mestizo Latin American dishes he has prepared for us,let us remember, imagine, and recreate shared memories with our loved ones around these aromas, flavors, and textures, and let’s cultivate
his culinary art and his teachings in our homes. As we leave,let’s keep in our minds and hearts the beautiful and unique art of sharing Latin American food, embracing wisdom from ancient and new cultures,embracing diverse culinary communities at heart among unique, and eclectic flavors, aromas, textures, and taste from diverse regions, classes,ethnic groups and distinct cultural practices. Chef Julian has demonstrated how Latin American cuisine integrates local, regional, national,and global cuisines, bringing together fascinating ingredients and spices, experimenting with flavors, aromas, and textures and forging a unique culinary mestizo taste which is pleasurable, daring, and enticing. Let’s mix ingredients, spice exotic dishes, re-imagine ancient, modern, and fusion culinary methods creating new Latin/American/Latino/ New Southern gastronomic practices, by crossing borders as we experiment with our own mestizo/latino dishes.

For those of you who came to Sabor Latino on September 25th 2014, many THANKS for attending the event helping LAWA to raise money to sustain and continue its mission. 


THANKS:


  • to Food Lion for providing ingredients and hiring a magnificent chef;
  • to the Mint Museum for being (again) such gracious host; 
  • to the following sponsors: PNC, Fifth Third Bank, Midrex, NorsanMedia, Moore&Van Allen, and Total Wine
  • to the event organizers Ana Silva Rey and Ana Rivera Lemley; 
  • to Dr. Magdalena Maiz - Peña for her wonderful literary contribution; 
  • to LAWA board members, who are giving Time, Talent and Treasure to the organization;
  • to LAWA staff members Violeta Moser, Executive Director and Gricelda De la Cruz, Program Coordinator, for tireless hours coordinating the event. 
  • to Mónica Roncagliolo, who once again, took pictures helping us to keep memories...
  • to YOU, the reader, for taking the time to learn about Sabor Latino - a Latin Flavor!


Proceeds of this event support LAWA's mission to help students achieve success by graduating from High School. and College. 

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